Day One of the tour began with a visit to my favorite cathedral, Notre Dame de Paris. The first stone was laid in 1163, under the supervision of the Bishop of Paris, Maurice Sully, and the consecration of the high altar in the choir was done in 1182. It would become one of the gems of the new style that we know today as Gothic. But if it was not begun until Eleanor had been long gone from Paris, what is its Angevin connection? A very strong one, actually, for it was here that Eleanor and Henry’s son Geoffrey, Duke of Brittany, was given a state funeral after being mortally wounded in a tournament in August of 1186. In past blogs, I’ve mentioned a friend, Malcolm Craig, who is very knowledgeable about Geoffrey’s life; Geoffrey was the subject of his senior thesis at Harvard and Malcolm subsequently published an article, A Second Daughter for Geoffrey of Brittany, in the Bulletin of the Institute of Historical Research, which was of great value to me during my writing of Devil’s Brood. Malcolm allowed me to post his article, called Proving Matilda, on my blog in January, 2010. It was from Malcolm that I learned there is a plaque in Notre Dame commemorating Geoffrey’s death. I’d never seen it on past visits, so we were determined to find it this time. Soon there were 36 tour members in the hunt, and we did locate it, thanks to Malcolm’s guidance. The date was wrong, 1185, but that is not so unusual; George of Clarence’s tomb has the wrong death date, too, in the chapel of St George at Windsor Castle. Before we left, I did what I always do at Notre Dame and lit a candle for Geoffrey.
We had two Paris guides, Jennifer and Herve. After pointing out the oldest tree in Paris, which dates from 1602, making it older than my own country, our guides took us to the Cluny Museum, which has a magnificent medieval collection, not surprising since its official name is Musee National du Moyen Age. The building itself is breathtaking, at least to me and my fellow medieval geeks. It was formerly the Paris residence of the abbots of Cluny, and the present structure was rebuilt in the late 15th century. For us, probably the most interesting occupant was Mary Tudor, Henry VIII’s sister, who’d been wed at 18 to the much older French king, Louis XII. He died only three months after their marriage, and the young widow took up residence at Cluny until the new French king could be sure she was not pregnant. She had agreed to wed the French king only upon condition that she could choose her second husband herself, but naturally brother Henry reneged on his promise and sent Charles Brandon to fetch her back to England. Instead Mary and Brandon were wed in the chapel at Cluny. Henry was infuriated, but he eventually accepted the marriage after exacting a huge fine from the guilty lovers.
Kings did not like it when their daughters and sisters showed they had minds of their own. While Henry III reluctantly allowed Simon de Montfort to wed his sister Nell, he nursed a grudge that would later explode into a public accusation that Simon had seduced Nell and Simon and Nell had to flee to France for a time. When Edward I’s spirited daughter Joanna dared to marry a squire after the death of her husband, the Earl of Gloucester, the enraged Edward imprisoned the bridegroom at Bristol Castle, and there is a wonderful entry in the Pipe Rolls listing the costs of repairing the royal crown, “which it pleased the lord king to throw into the fire.” In time, Edward recognized the marriage, although there is some evidence that he never really forgave them. And of course we know the outraged reaction of Louis VII, upon learning that his ex-wife Eleanor had not waited for him to arrange a second marriage to a puppet of the French Crown, but instead had dared to wed the young Duke of Normandy, Henry Fitz Empress.
Sorry for the digression, but there is something romantic about Mary’s secret marriage in Cluny Chapel, even if she is a Tudor! Cluny has been a public museum since the 19th century and has on display some of the most amazing tapestries I’ve ever seen, six panels known as The Lady and the Unicorn. They were woven in Flanders in the 15th century, and were rediscovered in the 19th century at Boussac Castle. I was fascinated to learn that the novelist George Sand used her celebrity status to focus attention upon the importance of this find, so in addition to her novels, she leaves another legacy. Tracy Chevalier has written about the creation of these magnificent tapestries in her novel, The Lady and the Unicorn.
After our visit to the Cluny we headed for the Louvre, which began life as a castle constructed by Richard Lionheart’s nemesis, Philippe Auguste; parts of the original wall have been preserved, but the building itself, of course, has been transformed over the centuries. It has been a museum since the late 18th century. Our major objective was to see the beautiful pear-shaped rock crystal vase that was given by Eleanor to Louis after their marriage in 1137. Louis later gave it to his trusted adviser, Abbot Suger, who displayed it proudly in the treasury of his abbey at Saint Denis. George Beech, author of “The Eleanor of Aquitaine Vase” in Eleanor of Aquitaine, Lord and Lady, my favorite book about our duchess, makes a convincing case that the vase was a gift from the Muslim king of the Spanish city of Saragossa to Eleanor’s grandfather, Duke William IX in 1120 and that it is of truly ancient origin, possibly crafted in Persia before the 7th century. There is an intimacy about this vase, perhaps because we know Eleanor held it, caressed it, and cherished it enough to give as a wedding gift, and the inscription by Abbot Suger brings us even closer to the “Queen of Aquitaine,” as he calls her, the “newly wed bride on their first voyage.” It is interesting, too, that Abbot Suger chose to name her as “Aanor,” for in her charters, she always called herself Alienor. I’d tried to convince my publisher to let me use this spelling for my Angevin trilogy, but to no avail. I hope Elizabeth Chadwick has better luck than I did!
It was believed until recently that Eleanor was 15 at the time of her marriage to Louis, but now, thanks to the research of Andrew W. Lewis, we know she was actually born in 1124, and was therefore only 13 when she became Louis’s bride and, several months, later, Queen of France. A very young age for a girl to — in a matter of months — lose her father, gain a husband, and leave her beloved homeland of Aquitaine for a new life in Paris. I think it is typical of Eleanor that over eight centuries after her death, she is still surprising us.
We naturally spent a lot of time admiring Eleanor’s vase, and many in our group wanted to take photos of me beside it; I couldn’t help noticing the puzzled expressions of other museum-goers, clearly wondering why I was the center of so much attention! Soon afterward, though, my day took a turn for the worse. Up until now, my back pain had been easily tolerable, thanks to a back brace and Motrin, but it suddenly flared up without warning. I soldiered on, but fortunately for me, our “resident physician” had a sharp eye and soon realized I was in considerable pain. John persuaded me to sit down and then found our guide to explain that I would not be able to continue with the rest of the museum tour. I am very glad that I had enough common sense to listen to him, for I think I may have jeopardized the rest of the tour had I not paid heed to what my body was telling me. By the time the others rejoined us several hours later, I was starting to feel somewhat better and I’d learned a valuable lesson—that I must pace myself for the remainder of the trip. (For those who are new visitors to my blog or Facebook page, I took a bad fall in March and as a result, I was coping with a herniated disk and a pinched nerve. Thankfully, I have a wonderful chiropractor, or otherwise I’d be making regular pilgrimages to Lourdes.)
That evening, Academic Travel had arranged a medieval-style dinner at the request of several tour members. I’ve attended two medieval banquets in the past, both in York, and in all honesty, this was not in their class, for they’d been the “real deal,” with costumes, medieval music, a medieval menu, etc. But our travel agency did the best they could with so little time to prepare and found a restaurant that specialized in “event” dinners. The food was excellent, as was the wine, of course; we were in France, after all. So even if we were not wearing veils and wimples and tunics, we had a good time, a private room, and not an accordion player in sight!
Afterward, a few brave souls decided to return to Notre Dame to see if they could climb to the top of the tower. I went back to our hotel, where my netbook showed it is a true cousin of Demon Spawn and would not let me log onto the Internet. That was bad enough, but then my new Kindle froze up; I am surprised you all did not hear a primal scream echoing across the Atlantic. Clearly I bring my own “dead zone” with me wherever I go.
I’d been surprised to discover that I had a dazzling view of the Eiffel Tower from my 6th floor window. I was surprised because I always stay at Left Bank hotels, as close as I can get to Notre Dame, and this was the first time that I’d even gotten a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower from a hotel room. Never having been there after dark, I hadn’t realized it is lit up at night, rather like an ironclad Christmas tree. A storm soon broke over the city and the Eiffel Tower disappeared as if by magic in a torrential downpour. Slugabeds like me stayed safely dry, but a few of us did get drenched on the way back to the hotel. The last sight I remember that night was the return of the Eiffel Tower, gleaming through the mist as the rain clouds moved on. So ended our first full day in Paris. On the morrow we’d be heading for Falaise and then one of the seven wonders of the world — or it ought to be — the abbey at Mont St Michel.
June 27, 2011
The photos of Notre Dame, the Lady and the Unicorn Tapestry, and the Eleanor vase were taken by John, our physician/photographer. The photo of the view from our hotel with the Eiffel Tower in the distance was taken by our cellist, Sherill. I had trouble uploading the photo of Geoffrey’s plaque, will add it to the album I’m putting up on Facebook and will try to add it here later.
Sharon, your blog is as eloquent as your novels. The pictures are beautiful. I was in Paris in 1970 and it looks as though some things have changed. More growth like every other place one goes.
I fell in love with Musee Cluny years ago, but did not know of the Tudor connection. Thanks so much for sharing that info. Sounds like we’re indebted to John for more than his wonderful photos.
I visited Musee Cluny a few years ago, and loved it. Sadly, part of it was closed that day, due to a public service strike, so we were unable to see the tapestries, but there was an incredible display of stained glass, and beautiful ceramics. There was a wonderful Medieval garden, with plants that would have been grown then, and information about the symbolic meaning of plants, and how they were used, giving a fascinating insight in Medieval life.
Do hope that your back continues mending, and glad that in pacing yourself you managed to get through the whole tour.
Wow. I really wish I could have been there. Still, reading about it is some small consolation.
Today, Edward IV of England was coronated, and Elizabeth of York gave birth to a boy who would eventually become Henry VIII [IX]. And since you’ve seen fit to mention Mary Tudor, Sharon, I will add that she died on the 25th of June, and her husband, Louis XII of France, was born on the 27th.
Lovely blog and wonderful; pictures, more please.
I am so lucky to have friends knowledgeable about the MA! Anne Easter Smith has kindly reminded me that George of Clarence is buried at Tewkesbury Abbey, not Windsor Castle. Thanks, Anne; sorry about that, George.
Here is today’s Facebook Note.
I want to thank my friend Koby for reminding me that Raymond, Prince of Antioch, died on this date in 1149 at the battle of Inab; he was beheaded by the uncle of Saladin and his head sent as a trophy to the Caliph of Baghdad. I’ve always been convinced that the moribund marriage of Louis VII and Eleanor of Aquitaine took its last gasp on this date, too. It was Louis’s refusal to help Raymond recover Edessa, the reason for the Second Crusade, that created a serious wound in a marriage that had not been healthy for years. Eleanor was in agreement with Raymond that Edessa must be retaken, and when Louis stubbornly insisted upon continuing on to Jerusalem, she declared that she would remain in Antioch and initiate annulment proceedings. Louis was persuaded to have her taken from Antioch by force, and rumors were soon spreading that she and her uncle Raymond’s obvious affection had crossed a forbidden line. The best account and analysis of the Antioch episode by far is the one in Dr Ralph Turner’s biography, Eleanor of Aquitaine. I doubt that Eleanor ever forgave Louis for this. But any chance they might have had of getting past it and repairing their broken relationship surely died the day that Eleanor learned the fate of her beloved uncle. Unfortunately, I’ was not able to write about the Second Crusade, but we can look forward to Elizabeth Chadwick’s account in the first of her trilogy about Eleanor.
And thanks to Nan Hawthorne’s Today in Medieval History for reminding me that on this date in 1509, Margarert Beaufort, Lady Stanley, and IMHO, a worthy rival for the title bestowed on the crafty French king, Louis XI–the Universal Spider, drew her last breath.
Also, I expect to have up on my website this week the Lionheart cover, the prologue, first chapter, links to pre-order it, and a brief commentary by me.
Today, the Battle of Inab took place, where Raymond of Antioch, Eleanor’s uncle, was killed, and Lady Margaret Beaufort, Henry VII’s [VIII] mother died.
Today, Hugh de Kevelioc, Earl of Chester, son of Ranulf de Gernon and Maud of Gloucester died, leaving behind his son, Ranulf de Blundeville and his four daughters, as well as his wife and mother.
Here is today’s Facebook Note, Tip Sheets and the Tudors.
First of all, a belated happy Canada Day to my Canadian friends and readers. Then an apology for the delay in putting up another Eleanor tour blog. But I’ve had to give priority to the 1,200 tip sheets I must sign and get off to my publisher this coming week. In the old days, writers would get boxes of actual books to sign, and this entailed unpacking, then repacking, and arranging for pickup. So I salute the genius who came up with the idea of tip sheets. These signed pages are inserted into the books when they are put together at the bindery…a vast improvement. I once was sent to a warehouse to sign over a thousand copies of Here Be Dragons. It took me six hours and I think the warehouse workers thought I was being held hostage or something, for the dear souls kept coming in to offer me coffee and donuts. By the end of the day, I was regretting not having adopted a single pen name like Cher and my hand looked like that Hollywood horror flick, The Mummy’s Claw. So this is the proverbial piece of cake.
Also, I get to sit comfortably in my recliner chair and watch The Six Wives of Henry VIII as I sign. I’ just finished the fifth episode and fifth wife, poor little Catherine Howard, last night. The series holds up remarkably well and shows that it is possible to be historically accurage and highly entertaiing at the same time. Keith Michell is compelling as Henry VIII, and unlike Jonathan Rhys Meyes in The Tudors, he ages and gains weight as the series advances. No Portrait of Dorian Grey here, thank God. No bizarre plot twists, either, like when the screenwriters for The Tudors (presumably sober at the time) decided to have Henry’s sister Mary wed the King of Portugal instead of the King of France and then have her murder him! All of the wives are sympathetically portrayed to some extent. Even with Catherine Howard, it is shown that she was a minnow swimming with sharks, utterly in over her head, and urged to take a lover by her uncle, the Duke of Norfolk, so she could give Henry a son. And it makes it quite clear that Anne Boleyn was the victim of judicial murder, as indeed she was. Anna of Cleves is my favorite of the wives in the series, a quick-witted young woman who gets what she wants–out of the marriage. And Henry’s portrayal is of a meglamaniac who eventually became a monster. It is truly chilling to see how he turns on these women he supposedly loved once, and even more appalling to see him threaten his own daughter whose only crime was loyalty to her mother. Two lines of dialogue last night were so revealing–first when Henry calls Catherine Howard his “most perfect possession,” and then when her uncle Norfolk visits her in the Tower the night before she is to die and tells her that “This is as much my tragedy as it is yours, Catherine.” None of the men I’ve written about in any of my books were as cruel, as ruthless, as vindictive, as petty, and as utterly hypocritical as Henry. Cromwell and Norfolk don’t come off very well, either. It must have been a curse to have to live at the Tudor court.
It is wonderful, though, that series like The Six Wives of Henry VIII and Glenda Jackson’s Elizabeth R are available on DVDs now. They simply are not making historical epics llike this anymore; instead we get The Tudors and The Borgias. Though Game of Thrones om HBO might well go down as a classic, too, if they stay as true to George Martin’s books in the seasons to come. BTW, when Anne Boleyn is executed, we do not get to see her head bouncing into the dirt and the television screen is not suddenly splattered with blood, as script writers are so fond of doing nowadays. The last scene is of Anne kneeling and placing her head on the block as the sword descends. And we are spared Catherine Howard’s decapitation, too. Her last scene is in the Tower with her wretch of an uncle when she pleads with him to have a block sent to her cell so she can practice in order to die well and not to shame herself….surely one of history’s most pathetic last requests. BTW, while I’m still on the subject of the Tuors, I think two of the best films about that era are the one with Glenda Jackson as Elizabeth and Vanessa Redgrave as Mary and Anne of a Thousand Days, with Richard Burton as Henry and Genevieve Bujold as Anne. If you haven’t seen these, rent or buy them; they are utterly compelling. And of course I can’t pass up a chance to recommend two brilliant novels about Elizabeth Tudor–Legacy by Susan Kay and Margaret George’s new one, Elizabeth I. Legacy covers the entire span of Elizabeth’s life while Margaret’s has a more narrow focus, from the Armada to Elizabeth’s last breath; I told her she should have called it The Lioness in Winter. Historical fiction doesn’t get any better than these novels.
Totally agree with you about the two films mentioned above. They really are the standard by which all historic films should be measured.
BTW – we were reading The Other Boleyn Girl in a book group a while back, and I was stunned when several of the members were horrified by the ending. They had no idea that Anne is beheaded! I somehow thought everyone knew this. Guess not, but it sure was funny to me!
Another BTW – any chance you might be having another tour next summer?
Today, Elizabeth of York gave birth to a daughter, Elizabeth Tudor, who died in infancy.
I would like to do more tours, Cindy, but I couldn’t commit to one next year until I know what progress I’ve made with A King’s Ransom.
I gave up on “The Tudors” quite early. You mention that the script has Mary marry the King of Portugal. As I recall, they actually combined Mary and Margaret Tudor. I guess the writers thought they had enough women already. But since Margaret is an essential piece to the Tudor story–the foremother of Mary Queen of Scots and James VI and I–it really upset me.
And today, Hugh Capet was crowned King of France, beginning the Capetian dynasty which would rule until the French Revolution, and Louis XI of France, ‘the Universal Spider’, was born.
Here’s today’s Facebook Note, but be warned; it is not for the weakwilled or easily distracted. I’d be embarrassed to admit how much time I spent playing this yesterday.
I am apologizing in advance for what I am about to unleash upon you all–a temptation sure to bring life to a screeching halt. Go to this website, but be warned that it pulls you in. http://www.akinator.mobi/us The aim is to try to stump the genie by thinking of a character, either fictional or real. It can be a king, an actor, a politician, someone in a novel, whatever you choose. The Akinator is fiendishly good at this. It guessed Eleanor, Henry, Richard, John, Simon de Montfort, Nell Gwynne, the Empress Maude, Rhett Butler, and George Clooney for me. After it guesses your character, it tells you how often that game was played. For example, Lionheart has been played over 1400 times, Eleanor about 500 and Henry just 140. The questions it asks are interesting in and of themselves. Soon after it asked if my character was part of a famous couple, it honed in on Henry, and I knew it was on Richard’s trail when it asked if he had a nickname associated with an animal. But it came up with Eleanor out of the blue, rather impressive. However, I did stump it three times, she brags. First with Llywelyn Fawr, though it did come close by suggesting Llywelyn ap Gruffydd. But I totally baffled it with Mercadier, Richard’s notorious mercenary captain. Once it admitted defeat, then I got to add Mercadier to its data base, which was kind of cool. It was also unable to guess al-Malik al-Adil, Saladin’s very gifted younger brother. You can see how I was wasting time yesterday instead of laboring away on the tip sheets!
Echo White Shepherd Rescue asked me to post this itinerary for Zephyr, a ten week old puppy trying to get to his new foster home next Saturday, July 9th, from Illinois to Alabama. If anyone lives in these states or has dog-loving friends who do and might like to help, they can contact Jeanmarie at 603-930-0792 or me at skp1124@comcast.net
Seymour IN to Sellersburg IN
Approx. 44 Miles 45 Min
Leave Time 9:25 am
Arrive Time 10:10 am
*****NEEDED*****
Leg 4 Elizabethtown KY to Bowling Green KY (time change during this leg)
Approx. 7 Miles 1 Hour 10 Min
Leave Time 11:40 am eastern time (10:40 am central time)
Arrive Time 11:50 am central time (12:50 pm eastern time)
*****NEEDED*****
Legs 5 – 9 are central time
Leg 5 Bowling Green KY to Nashville TN
Approx 65 Miles 1 Hour 5 Min.
Leave Time 12:05 pm
Arrive Time 1:10 pm
*****NEEDED****
Leg 6 Nashville TN to Lewisburg TN
Approx. 56 Miles 1 Hour
Leave Time 1:25 pm
Arrive Time 2:25 pm
*****NEEDED*****
Leg 7 Lewisburg TN to Decatur AL
Approx. 66 Miles 1 Hour 10 Min
Leave Time 2:40 pm
Arrive Time 3:50 pm
*****NEEDED****
Leg 8 Decatur AL to Warrior AL
Approx 65 Miles 1 Hour
Leave Time 4:05 pm
Arrive Time 5:05 pm
*****NEEDED****
Happy 4th of July to all who celebrate!
Today, the Battle of the Horns of Hattin took place, where Salah ad-Din defeated the army of the Kikngdom of Jerusalem, under Guy de Lusignan, Raymond III of Tripoli, Gerard de Rideford, Balian of Ibelin and Raynald of Chatillon. All of the above were taken prisoner, except Raymond of Tripoli, who managed to escape. Immediately after the battle, Raynald of Chatillon was executed by Salah ad-Din.
Here is today’s Facebook Note.
On this day in 1187, a battle was fought in the Holy Land that would change the course of history. Salah al-Din (Saladin)won a great victory over the army of the Kingdom of Jerusalem, led by its inept king, Guy de Luisignan. Virtually all of the lords of the kingdom were either captured or killed; one of the few to fight his way free was Balian d’Ibelin, a character in Lionheart and one whom I hope to give his own book; this is the real Balian, not Orlando Bloom’s fictional blacksmith in Kingdom of Heaven, one of the many reasons why watching that film caused me such dismay. (Mel Gibson, meet Ridley Scott.) After the battle, Salah al-Din personally executed Reynald de Chatillon, a man with much blood on his hands, and two days later, he put all of the captured Templar and Hospitaller knights to death. By October, he’d taken the holy city of Jerusalem, and its fall would give rise to the Third Crusade.
Everyone on the tour must have had a fantastic time. I regret I had other commitments, I really hope there will be another one in future as I would certainly take part!
Hah, I stumped the game with Queen Berenike II of Egypt and Kyrene. 🙂
Kudos for to the game though for brushing close on several occasions – it asked if she was Greek and is she knew ancient Greek, it also asked if she was a queen and if she knew Cleopatra – though I had to answer no to that question because whilst she’s an ancestress of Kleopatra VII they never met.
I tried Ranulf on the game and it didn’t guess!
Well, Ranulf is a fictional character and sadly, When Christ and His Saints Slept is not known half as well as it should be…
You can pick fictional characters, Koby, but they have to be famous ones. It guessed Rhett Butler and Ivanhoe for me. I can’t believe how much time I’ve wasted on this game!
Today, the so called ‘Auld Alliance’ between France and Scotland was officially formed.
Thank you for this information. Funny enough I’ve never seen the vase you’re writing about, do you remember in which section in Louvre it is? Another thing that intrigued me: where did you find the oldest tree in Paris? I’m writing a book on Paris 5, 7 wanderings in Paris 5th arrondisements, and one of the chapters is around the Phillipe August wall in rue Clovis, in Norwegian though.
Hello Sharon! I was so glad to find a tweet about you and Eleanor as I am a long-time fan of yours. I’ve read everything you’ve written and especially love the long and luscious historical novels. They hold prime place on my shelves and in my heart. I suppose you are the main reason I have chosen historical fiction for my own books. Thank you for being such a bright star to follow.
Your Eleanor tour sounds amazing. What a great way to connect with that unique queen. I am going looking for your site and a way to get these updates first hand. Should you have the time please visit my writing blog at elainecougler.wordpress.com. Meanwhile I’ll be looking for your next tome.
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