Day One of the tour began with a visit to my favorite cathedral, Notre Dame de Paris. The first stone was laid in 1163, under the supervision of the Bishop of Paris, Maurice Sully, and the consecration of the high altar in the choir was done in 1182. It would become one of the gems of the new style that we know today as Gothic. But if it was not begun until Eleanor had been long gone from Paris, what is its Angevin connection? A very strong one, actually, for it was here that Eleanor and Henry’s son Geoffrey, Duke of Brittany, was given a state funeral after being mortally wounded in a tournament in August of 1186. In past blogs, I’ve mentioned a friend, Malcolm Craig, who is very knowledgeable about Geoffrey’s life; Geoffrey was the subject of his senior thesis at Harvard and Malcolm subsequently published an article, A Second Daughter for Geoffrey of Brittany, in the Bulletin of the Institute of Historical Research, which was of great value to me during my writing of Devil’s Brood. Malcolm allowed me to post his article, called Proving Matilda, on my blog in January, 2010. It was from Malcolm that I learned there is a plaque in Notre Dame commemorating Geoffrey’s death. I’d never seen it on past visits, so we were determined to find it this time. Soon there were 36 tour members in the hunt, and we did locate it, thanks to Malcolm’s guidance. The date was wrong, 1185, but that is not so unusual; George of Clarence’s tomb has the wrong death date, too, in the chapel of St George at Windsor Castle. Before we left, I did what I always do at Notre Dame and lit a candle for Geoffrey.
We had two Paris guides, Jennifer and Herve. After pointing out the oldest tree in Paris, which dates from 1602, making it older than my own country, our guides took us to the Cluny Museum, which has a magnificent medieval collection, not surprising since its official name is Musee National du Moyen Age. The building itself is breathtaking, at least to me and my fellow medieval geeks. It was formerly the Paris residence of the abbots of Cluny, and the present structure was rebuilt in the late 15th century. For us, probably the most interesting occupant was Mary Tudor, Henry VIII’s sister, who’d been wed at 18 to the much older French king, Louis XII. He died only three months after their marriage, and the young widow took up residence at Cluny until the new French king could be sure she was not pregnant. She had agreed to wed the French king only upon condition that she could choose her second husband herself, but naturally brother Henry reneged on his promise and sent Charles Brandon to fetch her back to England. Instead Mary and Brandon were wed in the chapel at Cluny. Henry was infuriated, but he eventually accepted the marriage after exacting a huge fine from the guilty lovers.
Kings did not like it when their daughters and sisters showed they had minds of their own. While Henry III reluctantly allowed Simon de Montfort to wed his sister Nell, he nursed a grudge that would later explode into a public accusation that Simon had seduced Nell and Simon and Nell had to flee to France for a time. When Edward I’s spirited daughter Joanna dared to marry a squire after the death of her husband, the Earl of Gloucester, the enraged Edward imprisoned the bridegroom at Bristol Castle, and there is a wonderful entry in the Pipe Rolls listing the costs of repairing the royal crown, “which it pleased the lord king to throw into the fire.” In time, Edward recognized the marriage, although there is some evidence that he never really forgave them. And of course we know the outraged reaction of Louis VII, upon learning that his ex-wife Eleanor had not waited for him to arrange a second marriage to a puppet of the French Crown, but instead had dared to wed the young Duke of Normandy, Henry Fitz Empress.
Sorry for the digression, but there is something romantic about Mary’s secret marriage in Cluny Chapel, even if she is a Tudor! Cluny has been a public museum since the 19th century and has on display some of the most amazing tapestries I’ve ever seen, six panels known as The Lady and the Unicorn. They were woven in Flanders in the 15th century, and were rediscovered in the 19th century at Boussac Castle. I was fascinated to learn that the novelist George Sand used her celebrity status to focus attention upon the importance of this find, so in addition to her novels, she leaves another legacy. Tracy Chevalier has written about the creation of these magnificent tapestries in her novel, The Lady and the Unicorn.
After our visit to the Cluny we headed for the Louvre, which began life as a castle constructed by Richard Lionheart’s nemesis, Philippe Auguste; parts of the original wall have been preserved, but the building itself, of course, has been transformed over the centuries. It has been a museum since the late 18th century. Our major objective was to see the beautiful pear-shaped rock crystal vase that was given by Eleanor to Louis after their marriage in 1137. Louis later gave it to his trusted adviser, Abbot Suger, who displayed it proudly in the treasury of his abbey at Saint Denis. George Beech, author of “The Eleanor of Aquitaine Vase” in Eleanor of Aquitaine, Lord and Lady, my favorite book about our duchess, makes a convincing case that the vase was a gift from the Muslim king of the Spanish city of Saragossa to Eleanor’s grandfather, Duke William IX in 1120 and that it is of truly ancient origin, possibly crafted in Persia before the 7th century. There is an intimacy about this vase, perhaps because we know Eleanor held it, caressed it, and cherished it enough to give as a wedding gift, and the inscription by Abbot Suger brings us even closer to the “Queen of Aquitaine,” as he calls her, the “newly wed bride on their first voyage.” It is interesting, too, that Abbot Suger chose to name her as “Aanor,” for in her charters, she always called herself Alienor. I’d tried to convince my publisher to let me use this spelling for my Angevin trilogy, but to no avail. I hope Elizabeth Chadwick has better luck than I did!
It was believed until recently that Eleanor was 15 at the time of her marriage to Louis, but now, thanks to the research of Andrew W. Lewis, we know she was actually born in 1124, and was therefore only 13 when she became Louis’s bride and, several months, later, Queen of France. A very young age for a girl to — in a matter of months — lose her father, gain a husband, and leave her beloved homeland of Aquitaine for a new life in Paris. I think it is typical of Eleanor that over eight centuries after her death, she is still surprising us.
We naturally spent a lot of time admiring Eleanor’s vase, and many in our group wanted to take photos of me beside it; I couldn’t help noticing the puzzled expressions of other museum-goers, clearly wondering why I was the center of so much attention! Soon afterward, though, my day took a turn for the worse. Up until now, my back pain had been easily tolerable, thanks to a back brace and Motrin, but it suddenly flared up without warning. I soldiered on, but fortunately for me, our “resident physician” had a sharp eye and soon realized I was in considerable pain. John persuaded me to sit down and then found our guide to explain that I would not be able to continue with the rest of the museum tour. I am very glad that I had enough common sense to listen to him, for I think I may have jeopardized the rest of the tour had I not paid heed to what my body was telling me. By the time the others rejoined us several hours later, I was starting to feel somewhat better and I’d learned a valuable lesson—that I must pace myself for the remainder of the trip. (For those who are new visitors to my blog or Facebook page, I took a bad fall in March and as a result, I was coping with a herniated disk and a pinched nerve. Thankfully, I have a wonderful chiropractor, or otherwise I’d be making regular pilgrimages to Lourdes.)
That evening, Academic Travel had arranged a medieval-style dinner at the request of several tour members. I’ve attended two medieval banquets in the past, both in York, and in all honesty, this was not in their class, for they’d been the “real deal,” with costumes, medieval music, a medieval menu, etc. But our travel agency did the best they could with so little time to prepare and found a restaurant that specialized in “event” dinners. The food was excellent, as was the wine, of course; we were in France, after all. So even if we were not wearing veils and wimples and tunics, we had a good time, a private room, and not an accordion player in sight!
Afterward, a few brave souls decided to return to Notre Dame to see if they could climb to the top of the tower. I went back to our hotel, where my netbook showed it is a true cousin of Demon Spawn and would not let me log onto the Internet. That was bad enough, but then my new Kindle froze up; I am surprised you all did not hear a primal scream echoing across the Atlantic. Clearly I bring my own “dead zone” with me wherever I go.
I’d been surprised to discover that I had a dazzling view of the Eiffel Tower from my 6th floor window. I was surprised because I always stay at Left Bank hotels, as close as I can get to Notre Dame, and this was the first time that I’d even gotten a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower from a hotel room. Never having been there after dark, I hadn’t realized it is lit up at night, rather like an ironclad Christmas tree. A storm soon broke over the city and the Eiffel Tower disappeared as if by magic in a torrential downpour. Slugabeds like me stayed safely dry, but a few of us did get drenched on the way back to the hotel. The last sight I remember that night was the return of the Eiffel Tower, gleaming through the mist as the rain clouds moved on. So ended our first full day in Paris. On the morrow we’d be heading for Falaise and then one of the seven wonders of the world — or it ought to be — the abbey at Mont St Michel.
June 27, 2011